par Olivier Suter
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10 novembre 2024
2021 Côteaux Bourguignone Clos Aux Eglises Vines in Marsannay/Couchey – 50 yds from Bourgogne vines – no wood elevage for this. Round, darker fruit. Hmm – mouth-filling – juicy fruit, faintly structured. An easy and delicious start. 2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Vines in Couchey – 2 parcels. Only 2 barrels – 12 months elevage, all destemmed – older barrels. Used to be a larger cuvée but one part got upgraded to Marsannay villages. Smoky and perfumed – that’s attractive. More supple, velour texture – darker fruit – again a very attractive wine – and completely delicious – it’s a super Bourgogne. 2021 Marsannay 5 different parcels – still in Couchey… in 2022 some new oak and a cuvée name – ‘Coeur de Terroir’ A more high-toned and floral nose. Extra depth and concentration. Deeply flavoured – more depth to this flavour and it’s very well presented too. Simply lovely. 2021 Marsannay Champs Perdrix Lighter soil with more limestone – only 15 year-old vines. 20% wc and some new oak here too. Perfumed wine – more airy and floral – a faint barrel note too. Large scale in the mouth – the barrel adds a faint smokiness. Some extra tannin and a finish that holds very well. 2021 Marsannay Genelières 45 year-old vines from a north-facing slope. Up to 40% wc, and one-third new oak Less open but still with plenty of dark fruit. More direct, cool, faintly grained. A little framing of the flavour with tannin – a fine line of delicious finishing flavour. 2021 Fixin 5 different vines assembled – 20% wc and a little new oak. A little smoky aroma from the stems – then a clarion call of beautiful floral aroma – that’s a great nose! Concentrated but silky – there’s a base-line of finely grained tannin and some finishing bitters too – you should wait – but this is a villages Fixin with everything – bravo! 2021 Fixin Les Clos Not made every year – a parcel selection of the best grapes that are all whole cluster – made since 2008. In 21 only 50% wc though ‘as 21 was hard…’ This nose is round and faintly smoky. Like the last a very fine perfume of fruit. Wide over the palate – there’s scale here – super shaped wine. Broad and intense finishing with small bitters but still finishing sweetly. That’s got a very impressive shape and finish – I think it’s excellent… 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin En Songe Not quite 40 years-old – ‘so we don’t class as VV here.’ 20% whole cluster A silkier width of aroma. Less directly floral but still with a fine perfume. Supple, silky – a texturally lovely wine. Broad – a wine that gives a big hug to the drinker – super stuff. 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes An average of 50-55 year-old vines – about one-third wc with some new oak A width of aroma – with a little oak-spice showing here. More architectural – but more dynamic too – I love the vibrancy of this finish. 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cazetiers Actually Petits Cazetiers – From young vines – still 30% wc but here all new oak… Not fully open, slightly smoky – slowly adding some fruit aromas. There’s both width and intensity here. 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champeaux All destemmed – 50% new oak. Showing some more floral fruit. Broad, fine shape – melting with gorgeous flavour – that’s simply an excellent wine – tons of mouth-watering energy and complexity – yes – slightly creamy finish! 2021 Mazis-Chambertin 2 parcels – bottom and top assembled. 40% wc and all new barrels. 80 year-old vines Smokiness but here it’s more subtle – a more airy volume – in fact an impressive volume of aroma. Impressive scale – plenty of structure – layers of flavour. This will be super. Les Whites: 2021 Fixin Blanc Le Rozier More direct and mineral. Broader, more incisive flavour – bubbling with interesting flavour – plenty of concentration. Broad finishing – I like this a lot – this is delicious. A simply excellent CdNuits white – indeed a great Fixin Blanc! 2021 Marsannay Blanc Vieilles-Vignes A little bit of new oak for this one. Some aromatic weight and at the same time freshness. Hmm – that’s a good wine too – broad, growing in intensity – I like the shape of this – I have a preference for the Fixin today – but find this also a super wine. Source : https://www.burgundy-report.com/burgundy-report-extra/04-2023/philippe-naddef-2021/
